FROM GYM TO CRAG: My Experience and Some Tips!
Going from the gym to the crag can feel daunting, especially if you don’t already have experienced friends. I can confidently say that if I can transition from indoor to outdoor climbing, just about anyone can. I’m going to discuss my personal experience and share some tips on how to get your hands on some real rock!
I started climbing indoors as a kid, but I didn’t send my first real outdoor route until I was about 17. I was pretty busy with school, and I just didn’t know anyone who climbed outside. It wasn’t until I met other climbers at my first job that I went climbing outside. I started slow, just top roping at Stoney Point, and I slowly gained more and more experience until finally becoming the confident sport climber that I am today. Below, I will share some of the biggest factors that got me outside. I should preface that this relates mainly to outdoor rope climbing, and not bouldering.
PEOPLE
If you’re climbing ropes you need a climbing partner (insert free solo joke here). When I was climbing as a teenager, I didn’t know anyone who could build anchors or clean routes, and was WAY too intimidated to try and meet someone at the gym. Eventually, I got lucky enough to meet experienced outdoor climbers at my job and started top roping. Top roping was an awesome way to transition from indoor to outdoor climbing..since…most indoor climbing is top rope. It felt secure and not too far outside of my comfort zone. I stuck to top roping for a while before I moved into sport leading. When it comes to people, sometimes the best way is to just ask to tag along. If you’re somewhat shy like me, keep reading.
2. CLASSES
Taking a climbing class or clinic is a great way to develop your skills safely while also meeting other climbers. I have climbing buddies who met at a rappel class, and I have climbing friends I’ve met at anchor building clinics. Not only are classes an excellent way to meet climbing friends, it really is one of the best ways to develop climbing skills. I have learned plenty of skills and knots on the fly, but I do recommend that more people take classes by certified instructors and guides. It is better to guarantee that you’re learning things the right way the first time around, rather than find out 3 months later that you could have potentially killed your friend the entire time.
3. CLIMBING GROUPS
Climbing is more popular and mainstream than ever! As a result, there are more climbing groups, clubs, and communities than ever. Many of these climbing groups host outdoor climbing trips and meet ups. For instance, LadyCrushCrew (before and not during the pandemic) hosts outdoor climbing trips for all levels at different crags all over California. These types of climbing group trips are an accessible and fun way to get outside and experience different types of climbing. My first sport lead was during a climbing trip with a climbing group! I really can not recommend them enough.
4. THE GYM
Some gyms offer outdoor transition classes and climbing trips. Many gyms also have bulletins where you can find climbing partners. Take advantage! You can find climbing partners for the outdoors who already go to your gym!
5. MENTAL GAME
Climbing outside is a different beast. There are way more factors to think about and a lot more that can go wrong, but this should not dissuade you from wanting to get out there! While there is added risk to outdoor climbing, I would personally say that it is 100% worth it. There is nothing like being in a gorgeous place, climbing up a real rock face. Just be prepared for the climbing grades to suddenly mean nothing (a bit of an exaggeration, but still..) A Joshua tree 5.8 is going to be different from a 5.8 at Yosemite, and it is going to be WAY different from a 5.8 at your local gym. Don’t let that disappoint you! Embrace it! Exposure on a real rock face might seem intimidating too, but it can also be absolutely exhilarating and one of the best parts of climbing outside
6. GEAR
One of the biggest things that holds people back from outdoor climbing is gear. (Big tip: Don’t look at the price tag on trad gear if you can avoid it). My biggest advice is to just start slow and build up gear as you go. Don’t break the bank all at once. If you’re climbing with friends who also have gear, try to balance it out. If you don’t need 150 quickdraws between you, then maybe start with a rope and some anchor building gear. Having a rope and anchor gear is also useful for practicing knots and your anchor set up. You can also never have too many carabiners. My other big advice is, DO NOT GET CHEAP GEAR. I don’t mean gear that is on sale at REI, I mean gear that is coming from non-reputable sources. Our lives depend on our gear. Don’t skimp, and do your research.